Cheeses from Hemiboreal Climates
ADELEGGER
Raw Cows' Milk Animal Rennet from Allgaü, Germany Käsküche Isny pair with... Husky Lagers, Artisanal Gins, Tannic Reds (try Super Tuscans & Bordeaux) Rich and nutty like any good Swiss cheese but a bit more beefy and hefty like one might expect from a Bavarian farmstead. Sweet & sharp with notes of pineapple, brown butter & marrow. |
BENT RIVER CAMEMBERT
Pasteurised Organic Cows' Milk Vegetarian Rennet from Mankato, Minnesota Alemar Cheese Company pair with... floral, citric white wines (Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc), light reds (French Pinot Noirs, Barolo), Norman Cidres, Belgian Ales When ripe, this cheese rivals most French camemberts for its richness and depth—earthy with a yielding and supple texture. |
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DUNBARTON BLUE
Raw Cows' Milk Animal Rennet from Shullsburg, Wisconsin Rœlli Cheese Haus pair with... Barelywine, Porters, Whiskey, Barolo, Cabernet Appearances aside, this cheese hardly qualifies as "blue"; the curds are pressed after being inoculated with mould which all-but totally inhibit its growth. The result is a cheese closer in flavour to cheddar than your typical stinky blue. Contradictions aside, its a truly delicious and uniquely American delight. |
ISLE of MULL CHEDDAR
Raw Cows' Milk Animal Rennet from Isle of Mull, Scotland Isle of Mull Cheese pair with... Single malt, single malt, single malt!! ...or a nice stout, dunkel or porter Tobermory mash and rich island grass feeds the small herd of cows which supply this unique and irresistible cheese with a lovely malt background to its naturally yeasty and prickly cheddar profile. |
LAUGHING PRIEST
Raw Cows' Milk Animal Rennet from Reymond, Nebraska Branch Oak Farm pair with... Tannic Whites with Mineral Drive like a Dry Riesling. The Midwest offers us a real contender for old-world style washed-rind cheese; penetrating and classically gooey and pungent. |
LEDYARD
Pasteurised Ewes' Milk Animal Rennet from Cazenovia, New York Meadowood Farms pair with... Domestic Lagers and Pale Ales Wrapped in grape leaves and washed with a local Empire Brewing Co. brew, the fruity, yeasty paste reminds one of Piemontese robiolas with a sheepy kick. |
RED ROCK
Pasteurised Cows' Milk Animal Rennet from Shullsburg, Wisconsin Rœlli Cheese Haus pair with... Riojas, Zinfandels, Bourbons or Wheat Beers This is really a block cheddar, with a sweet, mild flavour. The blue mould is almost purely decorative, but a light kick at the end reminds you that it's there. Makes a delicious light snack. |
SOFIA
Pasteurised Goat's Milk Animal Rennet from Greenville, Indiana Capriole Dairy pair with... Sauvignon Blanc and Dusty Ales on the savoury side; for dessert, a lovely Sauternes or Sherry is perfect. It looks like Humboldt Fog and it tastes better; dense and with a delicate sweetness that counterbalances the natural goat tanginess. |
TOMME CRAYEUSE
Pasteurised Cows' Milk Animal Rennet from Savoie, France Schmidhauser pair with... Côtes du Rhône is the natural choice or other gentle reds, buttery Chardonnay and IPAs are great, too. This recent invention employs French Alpine milk with a sharp flavour and tang, citric, floral and creamy with untertones typical of the region, rainwater and earth. "Crayeuse" means "chalky", referring to the textural difference between this tomme and classic Savoie. |
TOMME de MANIGODINE
Raw Cows' Milk Animal Rennet from Manigod, France Joseph Paccard pair with... Bold, robust reds (Cabernet Sauvignon, Barbaresco, Malbec) One day, Americans will finally be able to import and/or produce real, young, raw Reblochon*, but in the mean time, Paccard's slightly larger format is a good way to meet the demand; the larger format allows the cheese to age 60 days without losing the mild, slightly nutty, milky flavour and unctuous texture that make the style so affable. *In the US, raw-milk cheeses aged less than 60 days are forbidden by the FDA. |
TOMME de SAVOIE
Raw Cows' Milk Animal Rennet from Haute Savoie, France Various pair with... Rhône Reds, Chewy Burgundies, French Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Belgian Sours Classic and earthy, lactic, mildly funky with giving and buttery texture and covered with a suede-like, grey rind that is frequently dotted with patches of yellow, red and white mould. A classic. |